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Tsumugi Ori

Tsumugi kimono

     Tsumigi, one of the twelve types of Nishijin Ori, is a relatively simple fabric. The thread for Tsumugi is spun not from individual spun fibers of un-reeled silkworm cocoons, but the stretched-out cocoon itself. This results in a thread that is not as fine as that which could be created using the individual threads of a cocoon but is warmer and can be made from silk that would not otherwise be useable.

     From what I understand, the threads for Tsumugi were traditionally handspun. Without even a spindle, the spinner would simple draft silk out from a mawata and twist it between their fingers to create the finished thread. This process is still carried out by craftsmen in Yuki.

     Tsumugi does not appear to be associated with one specific dye method, although, as a Nishijin textile, whatever method is used is used before weaving. The signature aspect of Tsumugi as a Nishijin textile comes from the way the threads are spun and the weaving method. Tsumugi is woven simply and has historically been made on backstrap looms


“Nishijin Industry.” Nishijin Textile Industry Association, Nishijin Textile Center, http://nishijin.or.jp/eng/whats-nishijin/industry.

 “手技TEWAZA「結城紬」Yuki Tsumugi Textile.” YouTube, 伝統工芸青山スクエア, 0 May 2019, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXR6hCTIOh0.

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