Skip to main content

Spinning

https://www.flickr.com/photos/photographic-heritage/15147232057


     Japanese spinning has a couple of key differences from the spinning historically done in the west. The spinning wheel used in Japan is the same as that used in India and China and it is believed to have spread to Japan around 1,200 C.E. This is most evident with cotton, in which the entire process mirrors that used in India almost exactly. However, cotton wasn’t introduced to Japan was producing fabrics long before the introduction of the spinning wheel, so some process must have existed before its introduction. Unfortunately I have had very little luck finding any information whatsoever on the spinning processes of ancient Japan. The only spinning wheel anyone associates with Japan is the spinning wheel that is largely believed to have originated somewhere in the middle East. No one seems to be very clear on exactly where and when the wheel was invented, some claim it began to be used in India from around 300 to 600 C.E., other sources claim that it didn’t spread from the middle east to India until around 1,000 or 1,200 C.E.

Tahkli supported spindle used in India for cotton spinning. Cotton requires a higher 
number of twists for inch and is therefore best spun using dense, compact spindles
with minimal points of friction.
     Although I have been able to find no information on any prior methods, I suspect that, based on the style of spinning wheel that did eventually spread in Japan and spindles used in the same area of the world, some variation on a supported spindle was probably used. The supported spindle is used by spinning a spindle whose base is resting in some bowl or dish with one hand while drafting out the fiber in the other.

Pictured on the right is a tahkli spindle used in India for cotton spinning. 

      The spinning wheel that has become known as the Japanese spinning wheel requires a very similar method. The wheel is turned with one hand, which in turn spins a whorl which twists the thread as it is drafted with the other hand. The significant difference between these spinning wheels and the spinning wheels used in the West, is that this method of spinning requires different actions to be preformed simultaneously with both hands. Another point of significance here is that there are no records of a Japanese spindle. A spindle of some sort probably existed prior to the use of the spinning wheel, but I can find no record of its existence. So, I suspect that, if a spindle was ever used in Japan, it essentially stopped being used as soon as the spinning wheel was introduced. By comparison, Europe has used spindles for all its history until the industrial revolution and in Peru spindles are used even in the current era with no significant use of spinning wheels even after Europe invaded. Spindles allow for portability and cost little to nothing. In cultures in which spindles are primarily used, spinning is generally done by a relatively high portion of the population. In Peru almost all children learn to spin and bring their spindles around with them so they can continue to produce yarn whenever and wherever. Spinning wheels generally can produce more thread faster, but they require a higher initial investment and are not portable. Therefore, in Japan, where the primary means of thread production was the spinning wheel, spinning was almost certainly delegated to a fewer individuals who spent more time spinning. This probably helped make the transition to industrialization of the textile process smoother as the process was likely already treated as more of a commercial enterprise than cottage production.



Pacey, Arnold (1991) [1990]. Technology in World Civilization: A Thousand-Year History (First MIT Press paperback ed.). Cambridge MA: The MIT Press. pp. 23–24.

Smith, C. Wayne; Cothren, J. Tom (1999).  4. John Wiley & Sons. pp. viii. ISBN 978-0471180456The first improvement in spinning technology was the spinning wheel, which was invented in India between 500 and 1000 A.D.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Silk  https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Silk_worm_21_days_01.jpg      Silk is one of the highest qualities of fiber and historically only used by royalty and the wealthy few. Due to processing that allows fibers to be spun in long, unbroken strands and the natural strength of the fibers, silk can be used to create fabric that is the strongest for its weight of any commercial natural fiber. The triangular shape of silk fibers gives the threads and fabrics made with them a satiny sheen and it takes well to dyes. https://pixabay.com/photos/kimono-japanese-traditional-fabric-637942/      Silk is taken from cocoons of Bombyx caterpillars which are raised eating mulberry leaves and sometimes Osage Orange. The sheen seen in silk comes as a result of the fibers being triangular (4). Most commercial silkworms in use are a variety called Bombyx mori that originated in China, although over 600 varieties of this silkworm can be found in Ja...

Jacquard Loom

Jacquard loom      The loom used in the modern production of Nishijin textiles is the Jacquard loom that was invented in 1801 in France and brought to Japan in 1872 when three students were sent to Europe by the Kyoto Prefectural Government to learn their techniques. This allowed Japan to mass produce Nishijin Ori and it has become the loom that is associated with Nishijin.      The Jacquard loom is designed specifically for brocades. To use the loom patterns are plotted out and then transferred onto cards in the form of a system of holes that determine which warp threads are to be pulled through and thus the pattern is decided with less work for the weaver.   This loom allows for complicated designs to be input into the looms to mass produce textiles without losing quality in the end product. The loom is massive, but not far in size from standard European looms and, though the mechanism itself is complicated in comparison to previous looms, ...

Nishijin Textiles

Nishijin Obi      Nishijin ori is a general term for Sakizome, or brocade-type textile in which the thread is dyed before weaving and the design is then woven into the fabric using a jacquard loom. It specifically refers to the textiles produced in Kyoto since the Heian period. Nishijin textiles were designated as a Japanese traditional craft in 1976. W ithin the category of Nishijin textiles there are twelve different types of fabric each created using different processes. The types of finished items that Nishijin ori is most known for are Kimono, Obi, Noh costume, Doncho, neckties, shawls,and interior decoration items.      The history of Nishijin Ori begins in the Muromachi era, after the end of the Onin War, (1467-1477) when textile craftsmen, who had dispersed throughout the country, gathered in the western region of Kyoto that was then coming to be known as Nishijin.   The name, which literally means “West -territory” originated as a r...