Skip to main content

Kasuri　Ori

Kasuri Fabric
　　　　　Kasuri ori is a method of dyeing thread for weaving that originated in India where it is known as Ikat dyeing. The threads are resist dyed prior to weaving in such a way that when they are woven into fabric a pattern will appear. This is done by grouping the warp and weft threads into small bunches and wrapping them tightly with thread. The resulting fabric tends to have a somewhat blurry pattern and rustic feel as a result either dye seeping into the resist-tied areas or the resist dyed patches not lining up correctly, but, considering how precise the planning needs to be for the resist-dyed sections to form a pattern at all, this method is capable of producing amazingly detailed patterns.

resist-tying
　　　　　Kasuri ori refers more to the dyeing method than the weaving itself,　and it can therefore be woven on a simple backstrap loom and is often done with cotton in a simple flat weave. Kasuri Ori has been traditionally used with indigo dyes to create practical work clothes with patterns in only blue and white but it is also possible to create a multi-colored pattern with other dyes. The tying of the warp threads for dyeing was traditionally done by hand, but machines have been developed that allow it to be mechanized now.







“02 KURUME KASURI 久留米絣- Japanese Ikat / Modern Technique (Machine Weaving, Chemical Dye).” YouTube, UNAGINO-NEDOKO Official/うなぎの寝床公式チャンネル, 25 May 2016, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7bxWww3AR8.

 Kurume Kasuri Cooperative Association. “Kurume Kasuri｜TRADITIONAL JAPANESE CRAFTS OF FUKUOKA.” TRADITIONAL JAPANESE CRAFTS OF FUKUOKA, Fukuoka Prefecture, https://www.crossroadfukuoka.jp/traditionalcrafts/en/crafts/kurumekasuri/.

 “Nishijin Industry.” Nishijin Textile Industry Association, Nishijin Textile Center, http://nishijin.or.jp/eng/whats-nishijin/industry.

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Silk  https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Silk_worm_21_days_01.jpg      Silk is one of the highest qualities of fiber and historically only used by royalty and the wealthy few. Due to processing that allows fibers to be spun in long, unbroken strands and the natural strength of the fibers, silk can be used to create fabric that is the strongest for its weight of any commercial natural fiber. The triangular shape of silk fibers gives the threads and fabrics made with them a satiny sheen and it takes well to dyes. https://pixabay.com/photos/kimono-japanese-traditional-fabric-637942/      Silk is taken from cocoons of Bombyx caterpillars which are raised eating mulberry leaves and sometimes Osage Orange. The sheen seen in silk comes as a result of the fibers being triangular (4). Most commercial silkworms in use are a variety called Bombyx mori that originated in China, although over 600 varieties of this silkworm can be found in Ja...
Post a Comment
Read more

Jacquard Loom

Jacquard loom      The loom used in the modern production of Nishijin textiles is the Jacquard loom that was invented in 1801 in France and brought to Japan in 1872 when three students were sent to Europe by the Kyoto Prefectural Government to learn their techniques. This allowed Japan to mass produce Nishijin Ori and it has become the loom that is associated with Nishijin.      The Jacquard loom is designed specifically for brocades. To use the loom patterns are plotted out and then transferred onto cards in the form of a system of holes that determine which warp threads are to be pulled through and thus the pattern is decided with less work for the weaver.   This loom allows for complicated designs to be input into the looms to mass produce textiles without losing quality in the end product. The loom is massive, but not far in size from standard European looms and, though the mechanism itself is complicated in comparison to previous looms, ...
Post a Comment
Read more

Nishijin Textiles

Nishijin Obi      Nishijin ori is a general term for Sakizome, or brocade-type textile in which the thread is dyed before weaving and the design is then woven into the fabric using a jacquard loom. It specifically refers to the textiles produced in Kyoto since the Heian period. Nishijin textiles were designated as a Japanese traditional craft in 1976. W ithin the category of Nishijin textiles there are twelve different types of fabric each created using different processes. The types of finished items that Nishijin ori is most known for are Kimono, Obi, Noh costume, Doncho, neckties, shawls,and interior decoration items.      The history of Nishijin Ori begins in the Muromachi era, after the end of the Onin War, (1467-1477) when textile craftsmen, who had dispersed throughout the country, gathered in the western region of Kyoto that was then coming to be known as Nishijin.   The name, which literally means “West -territory” originated as a r...
Post a Comment
Read more