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Kobe Fashion Museum


     I went to Kobe Fashion Museum. Which is the only museum
http://www.cochenille.com/design-inspiration-historic-costumes-cochenille-style/historic-fashions/
 in the area that is specifically dedicated to Fashion. As such I was hoping that it would be primarily focused on Japanese clothing, but as it was, the most extensive historical exhibit was dedicated to European and American clothing dating back from around the 1700’s up until the 70’s or so. The dresses were stunning, but didn’t give much any indication of what was worn in Japan in that time period or at all.



     The one exhibit that does seem relevant to my study and this blog was centered around a Japanese designer known as Yuki, born as Gnyuki Torimaru from Miyazaki-Ken. He was born in 1937 and studied architecture before becoming a “textile Engineer.” He did work for Louis Feraud, Michael of Carlos Place, and the design houses of Norman Hartnell and Pierre Cardin. He launched his own label in 1972, and in 1984 discovered the non-crease polyester material that came to be a signature aspect of his designs. His work has been inspired by monastic robes and is generally cut from a full circle for a dramatic draping effect. In 1986, Princess Diana, as part of her plan to wear clothing made by designers of the countries she visited, wore a dress designed by Yuki to meet Emperor Hirohito. (Bawa, 2003)
https://blog.pattern-vault.com/2018/05/19/
gnyuki-torimaru-yuki-style-patterns/
http://kerrytaylorauctions.com/
archive-list/?id=61&sts=archiv
e&paging=6
https://twitter.com/sasala__west/status/913342095993200640

     The clothing by Yuki that was on display in the museum was
split into two sections that seemed to be his clothing designed before and after discovering the non-crease polyester. All of his designs in both sections focused on a clean, sculpted, elegant silhouette rather than detail work. It is said that he was inspired by monastic robes and that can be seen especially in his early work which generally has a clean draping effect and often features heavy hoods. His later work is primarily made of the afore-mentioned no-crease polyester. This fabric can be made to take on heavy pleating and hold a stiff form supported by those pleats. Therefore, pieces made with this fabric often had a more whimsical silhouette and often trumpet-like hems. In keeping with the simplicity of his designs, all of the fabrics he used were monochromatic and often the entire outfits were made from one color.
https://www.heroine.com/the-editorial/fashion-history-less-remembered-designers
Bawa, M. (2003). History of Fashion Designer Yuki. [online] Marybawa.in. Available at: http://marybawa.in/historyofashion/yuki.html [Accessed 15 May 2019].


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